By Carly Mul
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October 29, 2024
Jittery. Uncertainty. Traditionally, election years are hard for businesses. People don't know what will happen, they want things to be over with and know what it is going to be. I have seen multiple markets and festivals in election years and it is always the same. There is a reluctance in the air, a cautiousness that makes spending more hesitant. Somehow we don't like this uncertainty. Going to a middle ground seems for many to be safest move but it doesn't bring out the best. That is exactly what this market was: uncertain, hesitant about a direction and moving towards the middle. It was very, very safe and also a little uninspiring. Of course there are some beautiful fabrics to be found ( and I felt tempted multiple times to buy entire collections) but overall it was not exciting for the eyes. Moda, always good for a beautiful display, had a "wonderland" theme and a big focus on Christmas fabrics. Modaland is wonderful, and I hope it pleased many. With 80 plus degrees outside, I could have been less for me. Moda is so big, you can always find something beautiful, but the displayed collection did not cover as much depth as in the past. It was less broad and quite repetitive. Here, the competition of the H&H market in Chicago can be seen and felt. That wholesale market in May has grown stronger in 2 years, which means that fabric companies will show the newest collections again in just 6 months. It makes the timeframe for Houston small and opens up - again - the question of "do we need two markets per year"? We can drive ourselves pretty crazy. On social media we have instant updates on what designers are working on as they are giving us views inside their studios. No market can ever keep up with that as it not the same real time. Social media is the friend and it is the enemy. It shows creativity, it kills creativity. Already a few minutes after opening, an avalanche of the same posts came into my inboxes. I decided that I would withhold most of my photos for later at lectures. Nobody is waiting to see me too talking to Tula Pink or anyone else. I spoke to a big shop owner from Germany who came to Market for the first time 20 years ago, but who hadn't been back since 2019 because of Covid. She said when she looked through Houston's most famous windows that she was shocked to see how small Market has become. The booths from the past are mostly gone and replaced by a few tables. "Why do I have to come to Houston when I can't see the fabric. They tell me to look at lookbooks online"? She has a point. Still, I have met people, including her, I would have never met otherwise and each discussion is such a point of connection, inspiration and learning. See more below. The booths are not always inspiring, but the people always are and market gives us an opportunity to communicate face to face. I love that. Karen Bresenhan, the founder and director emeritus of Market and Festival was honored in a special toast for making this possible for 45 and 50 years. Yes, she has influenced my life so much and I am grateful for "her" Houston. Mark Dunn, president of Moda, led a toast in the presence of many of the industry under the beautiful red/white/blue display of quilts. Attendance at Market seemed to be down. I have seen the general opening of Schoolhouse much more packed. It is a concerning trend. The biggest excitement for me was the Anna Marie Textiles' presentation as a new division of Northcott. She is not only designing for Northcott, she will get her own division in this company. Wow! Northcott is doing such an amazing job these last years. Coming from a strong traditional background, the last few years Northcott has added other segments of the quilting industry to its company. Young divisions like Banyan Batiks (batiks), Figo Fabrics (modern), Patrick Lose (basics) and now Anna Maria Textiles. They are covering more and more of the market and with great success. Anna Maria Textiles clearly found joy in the work and she is full of ideas for future collections. The first collection is coming in March 2025 and I bought all fabrics for collagefabric.com because they will work for collage as well! Her collections have a vision, color, good scales. They are not hesitant, but energetic and convincing. It is fabric of the year 2025 and I was impressed. It is certainly not for everyone and that is ok. None of us can sew with everything and designers should help us with options in styles and colors. They are our inspiration, or should be! Anna Maria most definitely is, but there is a lot of fabric that is new, but doesn't feel new at all. Not only reproduction fabric. Some "modern" looked dated as well. It could have made 5 or 10 years ago just as well. Why would customers be excited about this? It is as if they are all doing the same thing. Another Block of the Month with the same layout? Very, very few new patterns don't help either and most of them are nothing new and simple. I do think we need new beginner patterns, quick patterns, but we also need more intermediate and advanced patterns. We don't need the same pattern of yet another star with a different color border. Certainly not for $14.00. Sew Kind of Wonderful had the best new patterns, again. They are amazing and I will bring them with me to talks. Another designer that stood out to me: Emily van Hoff for Moda. Her Groove collection is truly modern. It is almost like improv piecing printed on fabric. Solids with curves...with great cutting it should open up some possibilities for funky quilts. Totally different from Anna Maria and anyone else....Good!! The fabric is not particularly good for collage and I can live without it, but I do appreciate how she is different and creative. In general, the newest prints have a lot of busy and small - itsy bitsy - designs. Multi-colored or tone on tone, but definitely more multi-colored and busier. In colors the market was holding back as well. White was absent and replaced with colors in more oats and taupe shades but these colors are still much lighter than where the home interior design world is. I have mentioned in previous blogs that the quilting industry is always following home interior trends. It felt like historic/vintage colors are the most popular ones. I know that is not the case. It was just shown more. Richer, more saturated and moodier colors were present but just in bit and pieces. Are they still too outspoken in the current climate? Anna Maria got it right as one of the very few ones. She is spot on in her color selection! I also missed the renewed interest in stripes. Yes, Kaffe is coming out with new stripes, but stripes are much more dominant on social media than this market showed. And what about the color of quilting thread? The latest is to quilt quilts in threads that are not matching the background so much. More contrast. Now you can use a yellow thread on an black and white quilt for instance. I didn't see this. It was all still very blended. There is nothing wrong with that, but I would have loved to see more newer color options in quilting as well. It was safe. Very few art quilts. Most quilts have blocks that are back to smaller pieced blocks, and I saw more traditional applique coming back. That is a good idea, because applique is an essential technique. Wonderfil has a gorgeous new thread coming out for sergers. It is SoftLoc and its beautiful color combinations almost made me wish for a serger! Wonderfil will also expand the Efina 60wt thread with 60 more colors, making the total 120 colors. Love it! Scanfil, organic thread, too is coming out with variegated threads. (Funny story: I met Boy, the vendor of Scanfil last year for the first time and discovered that he lives in the same village in Holland where I was living in 1994, just before we left for what we thought would be a temporary assignment in the US. He actually lives around the corner from my old house. We know each other's houses! He gave me a spool of his Scanfil organic 50wt thread and I loved it. It is really flat, with no sheen and sews beautifully. Highly recommended!). There were many, many booths with luxury notions coming (mostly) from Asia. Beautiful packages, beautiful tools, is the market ready for these? New rotary mats, gadgets... how many seam rippers do we want? Where do we store all these things at home? My thinking is still very much like a shop owner.